Surfing

Surfing is a surface water sport in which the participant is carried along the face of a breaking wave, most commonly using a surfboard, although wave-riders may make use of kneeboards, body boards (aka boogie boards), kayaks, surf skis, and their own bodies. Surfing-related sports, such as paddleboarding and sea kayaking do not require waves, and other derivative sports such as kitesurfing and windsurfing rely primarily on wind for power, yet all of these tools may as well be used to ride waves.

Two major subdivisions within contemporary stand-up surfing are reflected by the differences in surfboard design and riding style of longboarding and shortboarding.

In tow-in surfing (most often, but not exclusively, associated with big wave surfing), a surfer is towed into the wave by a motorized water vehicle, such as a jetski, generally because standard paddling is often ineffective when trying to match a large wave's higher speed.

The first European record of surfing in Hawaii comes from Lieutenant James King, who completed the journals of Captain James Cook upon Cooks's death in 1779. At the time, surfing had already been an integral part of indigenous Hawaiian culture for generations. Native Hawaiian surfers rode waves lying down, sitting or standing on long, hardwood boards. Surfing is a sport of native Hawaiian life as any major sport is part of western life today, if not more. It permeated Hawaiian society, including religion and myth. Hawaiian chiefs would demonstrate and confirm their authority by the skills they displayed in the surf.